Inside the Lab: The Journey of Creating a Skincare Formulation.

Have you ever wondered how a formulation is actually created?

It’s not as simple as reading an ingredient label and knowing what’s inside that little tube or bottle. There’s a lot of science, creativity, and back-and-forth collaboration that goes into bringing a formula to life. Let’s break it down step by step.

The Brief

Think of the brief as the “recipe request” between you, the brand owner, and the formulator. It’s the communication tool that outlines what you want your product to look, feel, and perform like, based on your market research and brand vision. Do you want something lightweight and fast-absorbing, or rich and luxurious? Should the finish be matte or dewy? Most importantly, what skin ailment are we looking at focusing on?

Once the formulator receives this document, they analyse it carefully. Their role here is to check for regulatory and compliance issues, make sure the ingredients you’re envisioning will actually work well together, and ensure that the direction aligns with your brand philosophy. For example, if your benchmark product contains synthetics but your brand is committed to being “100% natural,” the formulator will flag that early so everything stays consistent.

The Formulation Stage

When the brief is clear, the formulator begins crafting a template formulation. This is where they decide on the ingredients that will create the right structure, texture, and functionality for your product. They also have to consider practical aspects like batch size and raw material sourcing. Sometimes an ingredient looks fantastic on paper, but if the supplier requires a minimum order that doesn’t make sense for your scale, it may not be a realistic choice. This stage is equal parts science and problem-solving, as the formulator pieces together the right combination to deliver both performance and practicality.

Sampling, Sampling, Sampling

From the theoretical formula, the formulator will create samples for you to try. These are tested against your original brief and then adjusted to improve things like texture, scent, absorption, or overall performance. The process often repeats several times, with tweaks made along the way until the prototype is strong enough to present. It’s worth remembering that not every sample the formulator creates will land in your hands. Behind the scenes, they might develop 15 or even 20 variations before sending you the one that’s ready for your feedback.

Brutally Honest Feedback, Please

Your input plays a key role in shaping the final product. Once you’ve tested the samples, you’ll share what you love and what you don’t. Maybe the cream feels too heavy, the serum doesn’t absorb quickly enough, or the scent isn’t quite right. Whatever the case, the formulator takes your feedback and adjusts the formula accordingly. This process can take a few rounds, and patience is important. The goal is to fine-tune until both you and your formulator are confident in the result. Open and honest communication here a crucial. Don't spare the formulators feelings!

(Not) The End Of The Journey

Landing on a formula you’re happy with feels like a milestone, but in reality, the journey is only just beginning. At this stage, the formulation is taken through scale-up, where it moves from small lab batches into larger production-ready ones. From there, the product undergoes stability testing to ensure it holds up over time and doesn’t separate, change colour, or lose its effectiveness. It also goes through preservative efficacy testing, which checks that the product can resist microbial growth and remain safe for use throughout its shelf life.

At the same time, the marketing team prepares claims and descriptions, ensuring that everything aligns with regulations and represents the product truthfully. This stage is absolutely critical—it’s what ensures that the product reaching your customers is safe, compliant, and as effective as promised.

Formulating is rarely a straight line from idea to finished product. Instead, it’s a cycle of creating, testing, refining, and testing again. Behind every serum, cream, or cleanser is a lot of trial, patience, communication and science—all working together to create the products we see on the shelves today.

For clinic owners, salon managers, or beauty brand founders, understanding this process can make all the difference. It helps you appreciate the time and expertise behind your products, manage expectations, and build stronger collaborations with your formulator. Most importantly, it gives you confidence that what ends up in your clients’ hands isn’t just another skincare product—it’s something thoughtfully designed, tested, and tailored to bring your brand’s vision to life.

Want to see what's possible for you and your brand? Let's chat

-The Clinics formulator