Are the “Active” Ingredients in Your Skincare Even Active?

pH, Bioavailability, and Why Our Industry Needs Better Ingredient Education

In the skincare world, brands often shout about their high percentages of acids, botanical extracts, and “powerful” actives. It’s a sales hook that sounds impressive—but here’s the question: what actually makes an active ingredient, active?

Bioavailability: The Unsung Hero of Skincare Efficacy

So, on to some scientific stuff (stay with me). Bioavailability refers to how much of an ingredient is actually available for the skin to absorb and use in the way it’s intended.

For example: in a glycolic acid exfoliating gel, the glycolic acid must be bioavailable to achieve that promised exfoliation. If the ingredient isn’t in a usable state for the skin, it’s basically just… sitting there.

The Role of pH in Ingredient Performance

Let’s revisit that glycolic acid example. Imagine a product proudly marketed as “5% glycolic.” Sounds effective, right?

But here’s the catch—if the product’s pH is skin-neutral (around 5.5–6), the glycolic acid is neutralised. Meaning? No exfoliation is happening from the glycolic acid itself.

Sure, there might be other ingredients in there doing some exfoliating work, but glycolic acid—the supposed “hero”—isn’t delivering on its promise.

Why This Matters for Professionals

When you build homecare protocols for clients, you’re selecting actives for their specific benefits. If you’ve chosen glycolic acid for its resurfacing and hydrating properties, but the product’s formulation prevents it from working, results will be limited.

This can lead to:

• Frustration in your treatment outcomes

• Second-guessing your professional recommendations

• Loss of client trust over time

  
  

How to Stay Ingredient-Savvy

The best way to protect your results—and your reputation—is through ongoing ingredient education.

Here’s where to start:

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• Download my free Formulation Basics learning resource, where I introduce the key concepts used in cosmetic formulation science

The more confident you are in understanding how actives actually work, the better your recommendations, client outcomes, and business results will be.

Because in skincare, it’s not just about what you use—it’s about how it works.

— The Clinic’s Formulator